Dinkwads Abroad

Zagreb may be the capital city of Croatia with the highest population, but it doesn’t see near as many visitors as the more popular cities of Dubrovnik and Split. One thing we hear often when traveling is “X is where people visit, Y is where people live” to compare two different cities in the same country. And Zagreb is definitely the latter. Where Dubrovnik and Split feel like the perfect tourist destinations, with their preserved old towns situated right on the Adriatic Sea, Zagreb feels like you’re getting a true look into life in a Croatian city.

When we visited, Zagreb was still very much under construction. They suffered a massive earthquake in March of 2020 that damaged more than 26,000 buildings, leaving over 1900 completely uninhabitable. The city is still working on restoration projects, so much of it was still under scaffolding as of 2026. But where Zagreb’s architectural charm may have been hidden at the moment, it made up for it with an energetic urban atmosphere!

To see my perfect itinerary for a trip to Croatia and Slovenia, including Zagreb, along with all the details on how to do it so you can book it yourself, check out my detailed post here!

Where We Stayed

As usual with our trips, we opted to stay close to all the sights and activities we’d be doing to save on transportation costs and time. In Zagreb, this meant staying in Lower Town – but if you’re okay with climbing stairs every day (or taking the world’s shortest funicular), Upper Town would also be a good option! These are both located in the center of town and provide a great jumping off point for anything you may do in Zagreb.

Ilica Luxury Center Zagreb

Ilica 15, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
Check Availability Here

The actual location of this place could not be more perfect! It’s right off one of the main roads, Ilica, just down the street from the funicular for easy access to the historic upper town, and near all the food and drink you could need! While it was a little tricky to find the entrance at first as it was down an alley and then up a flight of stairs (or a quick elevator ride), it was easy to get to once we knew where we were going!

The room itself was clean with modern amenities, including a mini fridge, and a spacious bathroom. Unlike my other apartment stays in Croatia, this host actually reached out ahead of time with check-in details, so check-in was seamless! We had some slight issues with our a/c at first, but our host was incredibly responsive and helpful!

My one complaint is perhaps specific to our room in particular, and that was the A/C or heating unit was directly outside of our window, and when that thing kicked on, it kicked on HARD. It disrupted our sleep a few times while we were there, unfortunately.

Cost: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: This was a great location at a great price, with a super responsive and helpful host! My only suggestion would be to see if you can get a room without the a/c unit right outside the window. If I could guarantee that, I would 100% stay there again!

Where We Ate

Zagreb is full of culinary treats! We took a food tour while here, so we got to try some unique culinary treats we may not otherwise have tried, in addition to some incredible restaurants!

Heritage

Petrinjska ul. 14, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
Restaurant Website

If I could only recommend one restaurant in Zagreb, or you only had time for one meal, it would have to be Heritage. This tiny restaurant focuses on fresh, local ingredients with an emphasis on small producers in the region. The menu items highlight each individual ingredient, creating a simple dish with complex flavors. If you really want to experience the flavors of Croatia, this is the place to go.

We shared a 3 different half sandwiches and a local beer a piece, and it was more than enough for both of us! And at about 5.5 euros for a half sandwich, it was one of our cheapest meals on the trip!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: If I could give this 100 stars, I would. Everything was perfect, from the helpful and friendly staff to the absolute perfect sandwiches to the great local beer selection! I will always make a plan to go back here anytime I’m in Zagreb.

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash. They only have maybe 8 – 10 seats, so definitely make a reservation on their website.

Otto & Frank

Ul. Ivana Tkalčića 20, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

This was actually our last meal of the trip, and what a meal to go out on! We had a wonderful breakfast of smoked salmon egg salad on toast and banana bread, along with a latte. The salmon egg salad was creamy with just the right amount of dill, and the banana nut bread was the perfect sweet companion!

But they’re not just a breakfast place! If you’re more into lunch or want a place with a good craft beer or wine menu, this is also a great stop for that! While we didn’t have a chance to try their lunch menu, if their breakfast is any indication, it will be delicious!

Price: $$

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: Absolutely delicious breakfast, and there were enough items on the menu that I had a hard time deciding what to get! Absolutely worth going, whether for breakfast or lunch or just a drink.

Logistics: They accept credit card and probably accept cash! We were able to get in for breakfast without a reservation no problem. I don’t even see that they take reservations online, but perhaps you could go ask them in person when you’re passing by if you’d like to eat there later.

Tvornica Pljeskavica Kosta

Savska cesta 107, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
Restaurant Website

If you’re looking for a truly local experience, Tvornica Pljeskavica Kosta is exactly what you’re looking for. It came recommended by one of our tour guides, and with good reason. This no frills restaurant may not look like much, but looks can be deceiving. We were immediately welcomed by someone who I assume was the owner, who took us through the menu item by item (because he didn’t have an English menu). When we asked about trying a little bit of everything, he was more than happy to oblige! He asked for some preferences, nodded happily, and left without telling us what he would bring us. Not 10 minutes later, he returned with a massive platter of all different kinds of meats and piping hot flatbread, the classic cevapi!

When I say this was some of the most flavorful meat I’ve ever had, I’m not exaggerating! We had the standard seasoned meat, a spicy one, and one stuffed with cheese. I myself got stuffed pretty quickly, but I couldn’t stop eating because it was so good! Another place I will find myself going back to, and happy with whatever I order off the menu!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: We got so much food for the price, and it was mouthwatering! I just wish I could have fit more of it in my stomach!

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash. Our guide helped us make a reservation, as I don’t see a place to do it online. But as this is definitely not a touristy kind of place, I don’t know that you’ll have much of an issue getting in without a reservation.

Burek

Dolac 2, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

Any guesses what this place serves?! If you’ve read any of my other posts from our Croatia and Slovenia trip, you know we had our fair share of the classic regional dish of burek, a flaky pastry filled with cheese and various sweet or savory fillings. This was another spot on our food tour, and another winner in my book!

Burek is inside the Dolac market, where you can find fresh produce, meats, cheeses, fish, baked goods, and whatever else you may need. And also, obviously, burek.

Of all the burek we had on the trip, this was the simplest. It wasn’t trying to be anything innovative or fancy or new, and that’s what made it great. It was a classic dish, done the classic style, and done well. It’s a warm, hearty dish that will definitely leave you satisfied!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: I feel like burek is one of those dishes I’ll always be happy with – flake pastry, warm cheese filling? What’s not to like?! But this place gets the full 5 stars because they do the basics, but do it really well!

Logistics: I believe they’re cash only. They also are just a grab and go spot, so no need to make a reservation!

Fish Delish

Ul. Ivana Tkalčića 59A, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
Restaurant Website

This is a chain, which I normally try to avoid unless I’m just trying to grab something quick. But our food tour took us here, and I can see why! We had the fried smelt fish, which she described as a standard local dish in Croatia. And while I was hesitant at first eating these tiny little fish fried whole, I was pleasantly surprised and found myself finishing the whole serving!

The fish were salty and crunchy, and paired with the creamy tartar sauce, they made a perfect fried snack without feeling too heavy!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: The dish itself earned 5 stars for me, but I would prefer to find it at a more local spot the next time I’m in town.

Logistics: They took credit card, but I’m not sure about cash. You should definitely give this dish a try – just maybe look away while eating it if fish eyes bother you!

Cacao

Trg Petra Preradovića 6, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
Restaurant Website

This elegant cafe has a huge selection of fine looking pastries like the ones you see above! They were beautifully decorated and presented in a charming little spot just off Ilica Street. And I’m happy to report that the pastries were just as delicious as they looked! We had such a hard time choosing what to get, we ended up with 3 of them – but they didn’t last long!

Price: $$

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: While the pastries were great, I do feel they were a little pricey. I’d go find a more casual bakery before going back again.

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash! The weather was perfect that day, so we were able to sit outside. However, they didn’t appear to have seating inside, so maybe plan to just grab and go if the weather isn’t great.

Pivnica Mali Medo

Ul. Ivana Tkalčića 36, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
Restaurant Website

We really only ended up here because it was late and they were one of the few places still serving food. But it didn’t disappoint! While we just shared a goulash with gnocchi and a beer, they had a good selection of pub style food on their menu that looked delicious, with everything from burgers and pizzas to more traditional Croatian dishes! And with houe brewed beer on tap, it’s a great spot for a beer and a bite!

Price: $$

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: The goulash was good, but nothing that really wowed me. I would certainly go back and try other dishes on their menu though – what we saw coming out to other tables looked great, we just didn’t want to eat too heavy that late!

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash! The place is huge, so I’m sure you’ll be fine without a reservation!

La Struk

Skalinska ul. 5, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
Restaurant Website

This is one that nearly every video and blog we used to research the trip recommended, and, honestly? Kind of a letdown. It wasn’t bad, it just wasn’t anything exciting. If you’re not familiar with strukli, it’s a traditional Croatian dish kind of like a lasagna, with thin dough filled with a creamy cheese. Sounds great, right?

And I think these dishes would have blown me away as PART of a meal. But as a whole meal, they lacked any sort of texture or variety. The truffle one had great flavor, but you were kind of over it halfway through. And the blueberry one was a nice switch up with the pop of the blueberries, but it was still more of the same.

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: Definitely try strukli while you’re there, but get it as a part of a meal somewhere else. Don’t make it your entire meal.

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash! This place is VERY popular, so if you want to go, make sure you make a reservation. Try to request the garden in the back, as it was beautiful!

Other Places To Eat

While we didn’t get to eat at these restaurants and therefore can’t vouch for them ourselves, they were on our list of options based on other peoples’ suggestions!

Gostionica Ficlek – Pod zidom 5, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia.
Highly rated restaurant serving Croatian classics.

Konoba Didov san – Mletacka ul. 11, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia
Croatian specialties in a rustic setting.

Where We Drank

Craft Beer

Goblet Beer Store

Prisavlje 2, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

While this place is further away from the city center and requires either the use of public transportation or a long walk, it’s a MUST for any beer lover! They have a massive selection of local and regional beers – I might even say almost overwhelmingly massive. And if you prefer your beers from the tap, they offer a rotating selection of draft beers as well. Even if your beer preference is the most niche type, you’ll find it here!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: If you love beer, make the trek out here for sure!

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash! You can take cans and bottles to go or drink them there. It’s not far from Tvornica Pljeskavica Kosta (see above), so grab some dinner there and then a nightcap at Goblet!

Bacchus Jazz Bar

Trg Kralja Tomislava 16, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

With a beautiful courtyard garden welcoming you just off the street, Bacchus Jazz Bar is a nice retreat from the bustle of the city of Zagreb. And while they don’t have a huge craft menu, they do have a decent selection to try some local or regional beers. They also serve coffee if that’s more your style!

We didn’t get to see any jazz performances, but it made for a great spot to hang out for an evening in the courtyard!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: The spot itself was easily a 5/5, but I’m removing a star because it was a fairly small drink selection. Still worth a visit though, especially on the weekend when they have jazz performances!

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash! There’s smoking inside, so plan to sit outside if you’re sensitive to that – but you’ll want to be outside for the garden anyway! It was quite busy while we were there, so you may have to wait a bit for a table as I don’t believe they take reservations.

Valhalla Beer Bar

Ul. Pavla Radića 3a, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

If you’re wanting to stick more in the city center, Valhalla is going to have the best options for a variety of beers. While not as large of a variety of Goblet, they still have a decent selection on draft and in bottles and cans.

I would have loved this place more and we would have stayed longer had it not been for the overpowering cigarette smoke in the space. It seemed nearly everyone in there was smoking and, as nonsmokers, it was quite overwhelming for us. They do have a terrace outside, but it was quite cold while we were there. So we sat as close to the door as we could get to escape some of the cigarette smoke, but we ultimately only stayed for one drink because of it.

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: The beer selection is really quite good and I like the viking theme, but I have to take off points because of the smoke.

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash! If you’re sensitive to cigarette smoke like I am or just don’t like it, make a plan to go on a nice day so you can sit outside.

Tolkien’s House

Opatovina 49, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

As a diehard Tolkien fan, it kills me to write this, but I wouldn’t go back here. I was hoping for a bar that felt like stepping into The Prancing Pony or something, but what I got was a standard pub with some swords on the wall and Lord of the Rings memorabilia. Did I enjoy seeing all the Lord of the Rings stuff? Absolutely. But the beer signs and stickers all over the walls clashed and created a weird juxtaposition between a Lord of the Rings theme and a basic pub.

The beer menu was also lacking. They had the fairly standard craft brews that you would find anywhere in Croatia, so we had already had them plenty of times already. And while they had some specialty Lord of the Rings themed beers on their menu, they didn’t have them in stock.

There was one really great part of the theme, however. Their menu consisted of pages explaining what type of beer each race from Middle Earth would drink and why. This made for an entertaining read in what was otherwise a fairly disappointing visit.

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: The beer selection was disappointing and the theme was lackluster. They should really lean into the theme more and go all out if they’re going to be called Tolkien’s House, rather than straddling this weird mix of modern day pub and Middle Earth inn.

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash as well. It’s just a beer hall, so no reservation needed.

Wine

A’e Craft Bar

Ul. Pavla Radica 54, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia

If you want terrace views from upper town in Zagreb with a drink, A’e Craft Bar is your place to go! While I had wine here, they also serve cocktails and beer, along with coffee and some snacks! So whether you sit back with a glass of wine and a book, glancing out over the city like I did, or want to share a cocktail and some snacks with friends, A’e Craft Bar is a great place to do it!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: This is a nice, casual spot for a drink and worth the stop just to see the city from above for a bit! This isn’t a speakeasy style cocktail bar, but much more casual, and it makes for a great spot to hang out for a bit with friends.

Logistics: They took credit card, and I’m sure they take cash! You do have to climb some stairs to get up there, so it may not be accessible to everyone, unfortunately. While there is a decent amount of seating, you may want to get there early or plan to wait a bit to get a seat right by the edge of the terrace for the best views.

Other Places To Drink

These are other places we had saved to try, but didn’t make it to!

The Swanky Bar – Ilica 50, 10000, Zagreb, Croatia.
It’s in the name – this place looks swanky! With a cool terrace, an Asian fusion menu, and a large drink list, this is a great option to sit and hang for a bit!

Conclusion

The city of Zagreb may have been under wraps while we were there, but their food and drink options came in strong with some of the most memorable eats and sips on the trip! It may not have been the most picturesque European capital, through no fault of its own, but it brought an energetic look into a real Croatian city, unaffected by overtourism. Dubrovnik and Split may be beautifully preserved and a fairytale city to walk through, but Zagreb is an excellent way to truly see the day-to-day in a Croatian city.

Read part 2 here, where I talk about what we did with our time in Zagreb!