Dinkwads Abroad

Dubrovnik is one of those places you’ve seen on the screen, most notably in Game of Thrones, and upon entering those towering gates, you immediately understand why it is the perfect setting for fantasy. The sun-bleached limestone walls rise up from the vibrant blue waves of the Adriatic Sea, shielding the stone streets of old town for centuries, a perfectly preserved time capsule. You can get lost in the narrow alleys, losing yourself in the cobblestoned twists and turns, but somehow always find yourself back on the main square as if you knew exactly where you were going. The sea laps up at the cliffs, and as your eyes get lost in the waves below from the great height of those medieval walls, you chuckle at the remark from the wall employee upon learning where you were from. “There are no walls in Kansas.” And he was right. At least, there are no walls quite like this.

If you’re looking to get lost in Dubrovnik and wondering where to stay and what to eat or drink, I’ve got you covered. And if you’re wondering what to do while there, you can check out my other blog post that covers what are the must do activities, some of those “if you have time” activities, and how to make the most of your time there.

Where We Stayed

When we were looking at places to stay in Dubrovnik, our one requirement was simple: We had to be within the city walls. I mean, you’re in a city known for its walls and its old town – you have to stay there, right?! I’m pretty sure you’re legally obligated to do so your first time there. It’s in the fine print on your airline ticket. Don’t fact check me, but I’m pretty sure I’m right.

Like many old towns, accommodations are retrofitted into the existing buildings, rather than new hotels. And that’s exactly what Booba House is. We ultimately decided to stay here because it was one of the more affordable places in expensive Dubrovnik while still showing mostly positive reviews.

Our stay did not start off as well as I would have hoped. We arrived at the building, exhausted from 24 hours of travel, with no check-in information, simply a sign posted on the wall with a number to call. Typically in these apartment rentals, you would get a Whatsapp message from the host the day before or at least the morning of with check-in instructions. But here I was, 5 PM, and I had not heard from the host at all, so I was expecting a front desk of some sort. But nope, not at all. This could be a failing of Booking.com or the host. Either way, it was not a great start. Thankfully, they answered the phone quickly and we were able to get the code to get checked in.

The room itself was nice enough. Clean with a place to lay our head, and at the end of the day, that’s what matters. However, the pictures on the website are a little misleading. When I booked “Room with a shared terrace,” I expected something like the image of the terrace with a nice table and chairs right outside the room. However, the terrace was nothing like the picture advertised and we were on the second floor, so not exactly easy access to the terrace.

Finally, the water heater did not seem to heat enough for two showers. Neither Beau nor I take steaming hot or unnecessarily long showers, but we were not able to get enough hot water for us both to comfortably shower in the same night. So one of us was always finishing their shower in room temperature water, which was less than ideal after the chilly coastal winds had cut through to our bones!

Cost: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: Despite the issues with the room (check-in process, misleading description and photos of terrace, and not enough hot water), it was a clean room on a VERY quiet street. And when you’re like me and a mouse sneeze can wake you from the deepest sleep, a quiet street gains a lot of bonus points from me. So if you’re okay with not having your own terrace, you reach out to the host ahead of time for check-in instructions, and you manage your hot water usage so everyone can shower with warm water, I think it is a decent place to stay for the cost.

But no matter where you decide to stay, if this is your first time in Dubrovnik, definitely try to stay within the walls or as close to them as you can. Most of the things you’re going to do are in that area, and with a small city center, I can’t exaggerate how nice it is to always be no more than an 8 minute walk from your apartment. Especially when you find yourself without a euro for a public toilet and in desperate need of one (not that this happened to me, of course)!

Booba House
Pećarica ul. 6, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Check Availability Here

Where We Ate

Dubrovnik has no shortage of restaurants. As a city based in tourism, they have to have enough to feed the swarms of tourists that not only stay there, but come in from the cruise ships on a regular basis.

Generally, my rule of thumb while traveling is to avoid eating on the main drag. In Dubrovnik’s case, this is Stradun, which runs from the East Gate, Ploce, to the West Gate, Pile (or vice versa if you come in from the West side). Dubrovnik is no exception, aside from the one morning we were desperate for a quick pastry before hopping on a ferry. So, ranked from my favorite to least favorite, here are all the places we ate while in Dubrovnik!

Dubravka 1836 Restaurant & Cafe
Brsalje. 1, 20 000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Restaurant Website

We started our trip off strong with this one! This was our first meal of the entire trip, and Restaurant 1836 hit it out of the park! The tortellini bursts with savory prosciutto and truffle flavors, and the grilled squid was the most tender and perfectly seasoned! Paired with a lovely Croatian white wine, wrapped in blankets to survive the brisk wind over the patio, staring out over the Adriatic, this was the perfect meal! The total was $77 for two entrees, bread, a bottle of water, and two glasses of wine. While not the cheapest, it’s one of the more affordable places to get fresh seafood in Dubrovnik, and certainly cheaper than the restaurant’s sister location, Nautika.

Price: $$
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: Easily the best squid I’ve ever eaten, paired with excellent wine, delicious bread, fantastic pasta, and incredible views! This is a must try for anyone wanting a great meal without breaking the bank!
Logistics: They accept card or cash. And while we were able to get in without a reservation after only about 10 minute wait, I could see how you’d definitely need a reservation during peak season. So plan ahead and make sure you add this one to your itinerary!

D’Vino Wine Bar
Palmoticeva ul. 4, 20000, Dubrovnik
Restaurant Website

This was not a place I had on my list for food, but rather for wine. However, when 9:30 rolled around and we were trying to find dinner because we had lost track of time, we found ourselves at D’Vino Wine Bar for their small plates to get us through the evening. And with a comprehensive list of local Croatian wines to pair with the food, it made for the perfect light meal!

While the crostini we ordered was delicious, what really stood out to me was the service. We put in our order for one type of crostini, and the (presumably) owner came out shortly after to inform us that he didn’t have some of the ingredients for those, but he’d be happy to create something out of what he did have that would be similar. So he delivered our plate, which not only looked beautiful, but was full of Mediterranean flavors, and explained to us each ingredient he used and how it all worked together. You can tell he’s passionate about his craft, both in his presentation and the taste! In addition, he was just an absolute joy to talk to. As an Aussie, he gave us tips and tricks for our next big trip planned for New Zealand and Australia, and was full of positivity and energy. If nothing else, go there to have a chat with him!

Price: $$
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: Whether you go for wine, small plates, or just conversation with a very personable owner, you won’t be disappointed!
Logistics: They accept card or cash. We were able to get in without a wait, but it was late and not peak season. If you want to make sure you can get in during peak season or peak time, you may consider making a reservation.

Holy Burek
Ul. od Puca 22, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Restaurant Website

If you’ve watched any videos on where to eat in Dubrovnik or read anything, you’ve come across Holy Burek. And for good reason! Burek is one of those foods you will find everywhere in Croatia, from bakeries to the grocery store to these specialty shops. It’s a flaky pastry filled with various stuffings, like ground meet, cheese, spinach, or even sweet fillings like apples or sweet cheese. It’s Croatian fast food, and when you’re on the go, Holy Burek is a great option!

We had the veal as well as the spinach and cheese, and while they were both good, we definitely preferred the veal. And at only €7 – 9 a piece, they make for an affordable grab and go style lunch.

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: Look, this was a delicious burek and as good as they came. The only reason I’m not giving it the full five stars is because, at the end of the day, burek (while tasty) is not the most standout dish. Make a plan to grab one, but don’t expect it to be the most mindblowing thing you’ve eaten!
Logistics: They accept card or cash. There is no seating, so it’s just counter service. Even in shoulder season at 3 PM, there was a little bit of a line, but it did move pretty quickly. I’ve seen videos of lines down the street though, so it looks like it can get crazy during peak season!

Bota Sare Oyster & Sushi Bar
Peline ul. 4, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Restaurant Website

Being so close to the sea and such fans of sushi, getting sushi at some point was non-negotiable. I had read online that Bota Sare was the place to go, so we made a reservation ahead of time, just to make sure we got in! We ordered the dragon roll, special bota roll, agemaki fantasy, fatty tuna nigiri, and tuna tartar. The tuna tartar, while not sushi, was the standout, with the agemaki being a close second, so I’d definitely recommend ordering those!

Price: $$
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: I know I’m sounding like such an American when I say this because our sushi menus are excessive, but I wish there was just a little more variety in their menu. That being said, the three rolls and tartar were great! I probably would skip the fatty tuna, just because I’ve had better (albeit that was in Japan, so my standards are very high).
Logistics: They accept card or cash. We did make a reservation ahead of time online, just to be safe, but there were still some seats available when we went. However, if you’re traveling during peak season, I’d recommend definitely making a reservation (do you see a theme here?).

Babic Pekara
Ul. Frana Supila 2, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Restaurant Website

Sometimes all you need is just a basic pastry to get your morning going. That’s what we were looking for before we started our walk along the city walls, and given this is situated just outside our starting point of Ploce Gate, Babic Pekara was the perfect spot. Nothing fancy, just a good pastry to start the day!

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: Flaky pastries? Check. Sweet fruit filling? Check. Multiple options? Check. No complaints here!
Logistics: They accept card or cash. Since it’s just a grab and go bakery, no need to call ahead or anything!

Peppino’s Gelato Factory
Ul. od Puca 9, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia

You won’t have a shortage of gelato options in Dubrovnik! Peppino’s was just the one that was closest to us when my craving hit! I got a small cone with an ice cream that had salted caramel and nougat for 4 euro.

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: Good, but I’ve had better gelato. Maybe it just wasn’t the right flavor, but it didn’t hit the way other gelatos have.
Logistics: They accept card or cash. It’s gelato, so obviously it’s just a wait in line sort of thing, but the line moves pretty quickly!

Milnar
Cubranoviceva ul. 1, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Restaurant Website

Milnar is a huge bakery chain in Croatia, and you’ll see it everywhere you go. There are two in Dubrovnik old town alone! You’re not going to find anything super inspired and unique here, but when you need a quick grab and go pastry, they fit the bill!

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: I prefer to find a local bakery when I can, but Milnar is good in a pinch!
Logistics: They accept card or cash. You’ll find them all over Croatia, so if you need something quick and don’t want to think too much about it, this is an easy go to.

Burger House Republic
Siroka ul. 4, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Restaurant Website

This came at the recommendation of our tour guide, which usually local recommendations are an easy win. However, Burger House Republic, while not bad, did not hit the mark for us. We had an octopus burger and the cevapi, which is popular Croatian street food of grilled minced meat, served in a flatbread with raw onions and a red pepper and eggplant spread.

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: While the food was decent, it very much felt like a tourist trap sort of spot. I would have preferred to have gone somewhere else and gotten things that maybe felt less “gimmicky” and more authentic.
Logistics: They accept card or cash. We were able to walk right in without a reservation, but it might get busy and require a wait on heavy traffic days. I don’t believe they take reservations.

Other Places To Eat

While we didn’t get to eat at these restaurants and therefore can’t vouch for them ourselves, they were on our list of options based on other peoples’ suggestions!

Pizzeria Tabasco – Maestra Dela Jusica 48, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Supposed to have great pizza!

Lady Pi-Pi – Peline ul. 25-b, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Their seafood platter looked really good.

Trattoria Carmen – Ul. kneza Damjana Jude 10, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Italian specialties.

Nautika – Brsalje ul. 3, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Fine dining seafood.

Where We Drank

Coffee

Life According to Kawa
Hvarska ul. 2, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Website

If you’re like us and you get up early to beat the crowds and enjoy a beautiful morning walk along the city walls, you’ll be ready for a coffee when you exit the walls at Ploce Gate! Now you might be wondering why I have a picture of some prints, chips, and other random goods for a coffee shop. Well, that’s because Life According to Kawa is not just a coffee shop, but also a souvenir store! So stop by and drink your coffee while browsing local art and handmade goods, as well as a decent selection of Croatian craft beers!

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: This is a MUST for both coffee and souvenirs!
Logistics: They accept card or cash and you can get your coffee to stay or to go.

Cogito Coffee Shop – Old Town
Stajeva ul. 5, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Restaurant Website

Cogito is the same coffee they serve at Kawa, so you’re not necessarily getting anything new, but it’s just in another, beautiful part of old town! So worth a stop!

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: Delicious coffee in a beautiful spot tucked into the wall!
Logistics: They accept card or cash. There might be a short wait, but I think because this is off the beaten path, it won’t be so bad.

Caffe on the Wall
Walls of Dubrovnik

You can only get to Caffe on the Wall with a ticket to the wall itself. So while the coffee itself isn’t overly pricey (although to be honest, you do pay a little more for that view!), it does come with the added cost of entry! However, you’ll be walking right by this if you walk all the way around the wall, so may as well stop and enjoy a coffee (or beer/wine, I won’t judge) while soaking in the views!

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: Look at those views! How can I not give it five stars?! The coffee was delicious too, and they had a pistachio flavored latte, which was one of the few flavored lattes I was able to find in Croatia. A little sweeter than I normally like, but we mixed it with an unflavored latte, and then it was perfect!
Logistics: They accept card or cash. We got there at around 9 AM and there were plenty of seats available. But by the time we left at 9:30, they were filling up. So general recommendation for the wall: Get there early!

Libations

Glam Bar #Beertherapy
Palmoticeva ul. 5, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Website

If you’re a fan of craft beer, especially local or regional beer, don’t even bother going anywhere else in Dubrovnik! You’ll find a huge selection of craft beers on tap at Glam Bar #Beertherapy, and an even bigger selection in cans and bottles! They had so many beers, we had to go twice just to try even half of what we were interested in!

And don’t let the name fool you like it did the group of young women we saw coming in, clearly expecting “Glam Bar” to be a cocktail bar or some sort of club. They only serve beer and a few bar snacks, but they excel at that!

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: By far the best place to go for craft beer in Dubrovnik! Come prepared to make a tough decision if you’re trying to limit yourself to just one or two!
Logistics: They accept card or cash. It’s a small space, so if it’s really busy, you may have to stand outside! They also don’t serve any food aside from nachos and some pre-packaged chips, so make sure you grab some food before going there!

Bard Sunset Bar
Ul. Ispod Mira 14, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia

Okay, full disclosure, we didn’t actually grab a drink here. We just sat for an hour, soaking in the sun and enjoying the views on the edge of a cliff just outside the city walls. However, Bard Sunset Bar or any of the other cliffside bars in Dubrovnik (Buza Bar or Beach Bar Dodo) are great options to grab a drink with a view. While Beach Bar Dodo wasn’t open when we were there, and we didn’t get a chance to check out Buza Bar, so I can’t vouch for their drink selection, I can tell you that Bard Sunset Bar had a pretty basic selection of drinks: bottled domestic beer, basic wines, etc. Their Google pictures show cocktails and coffees, so maybe they offer these during peak season. But when we were there, it was just what they had in their cooler.

You can also swim there in warm weather, so what better spot to cool off by diving into the water, sunbathe on the warm rocks, and chill out with a refreshing Croatian wine or beer?!

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: Although their menu was pretty basic when we were there, the views and just the chance to sit on the cliffside and enjoy a drink MORE than make up for it!
Logistics: Cash only, so make sure you bring some! And while we had no issue finding a spot to sit, I’ve seen pictures of it PACKED. So if you want to be there at sunset, be sure to get there ahead of time.

Beer Factory Dubrovnik
Ul. Miha Pracata 6, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia
Website

I really wanted to give Beer Factory Dubrovnik a fair shot. But after you see the list of available beers at Glam Bar, their list just feels… lackluster. It’s not that the beer was fundamentally bad, it’s just that there were limited options.

Price: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: It’s worth visiting to try the beers they brew themselves, but the beer list is small, so I don’t think you’ll find yourself going back a second time like you would the Glam Bar.
Logistics: They accept card or cash. Sit outside and enjoy the beer garden! I didn’t see any sort of food menu, despite seeing pictures of food with their Google reviews, so don’t plan to eat there!

Conclusion

You won’t find yourself going hungry or thirsty in Dubrovnik! We just barely tapped the surface of places to eat, and I already have a list of places I’d like to try the next time we go back! Have a favorite restaurant there? Let me know in the comments!

And read on to Dubrovnik Part 2 to see what we did with our time there (besides eat and drink) and my final thoughts on the city!