“Split” Personality Part 2: What We Did and General Tips for Split, Croatia

You’ll find that this post on the things that we did in Split is a little shorter than normal. And that’s because we spent our only full day in Split on a day tour to a national park (more on that further down the post). And when planning our itinerary based on the research I had done on Split, I assumed that might be enough time to see Split. Others had said that two nights was too much in Split. I would beg to disagree though. We found ourselves leaving Split wishing we had at least one more full day there, if not more, and already adding it to the list of places we would go back to.

And so, with what limited time we did have, here are the things we did in Split that you should do, based on our experiences, and some things that would be nice to do! And if you missed part 1, covering where we stayed and what we ate and drank, you can find that here!

What To Do In Korcula

Don’t let the old Roman palace fool you – Split is a modern city with all the modern amenities and the activities that come with it! So with a plethora of options, these are my must dos while you’re there!

Free Walking Tour

If you want to really get the history of Split while also learning about local culture, and get some great recommendations from someone who lives there, start your time there off with a walking tour, just like I suggest you do in most cities! While there are plenty to choose from based on your interests or availability, we opted for this one and would highly recommend it! The tour was a good blend of history and modern culture and life, while hitting all of the main sites within the palace and old town. So if you want to learn more about how the palace was built and what it’s like living there now, definitely give this one a try!

Cost: Free, but you should definitely tip your guide (otherwise they technically are paying to take you on the tour). Guru Walks suggests $15 – 50 per person.
Time Allotted: These usually take somewhere between 2-3 hours, and ours landed right at that 2.5 hour mark!
Logistics: Sign up ahead of time and your guide will message you before the tour with details of where to meet and who to look for! You can sign up for tours online at Guruwalk.com.

Climb St. Domnius Belltower

Peristil ul. 2, 21000, Split, Croatia

I’ll admit, we didn’t get to do this one, but it was one of the top things on my list. As the centerpiece of old town, the belltower offers panoramic views that are supposedly fantastic on a clear day, rewarding you after 183 steps with a clear shot of the islands just off the coast and the mountains on the other side.

However, every time we had available to go to the tower, the cloud coverage and rain were going to severely limit our view. Plus, we were working with some physical limitations after a recent surgery, and while most things were okay to do, walking up wet, worn stones that are reportedly uneven and very steep seemed like maybe not the best option. So we’ve added it to our list for next time, but adding it to this list for you all!

Cost: 7 euro for a single ticket to the belltower, or you can spend 15 euro for a combined ticket that gets you entry to the belltower as well as the cathedral, crypt, baptistery, and treasury.
Time Allotted: Having not done it, I’m not 100% sure, but I would allow for about 30 minutes to climb, take in the views, and climb back down. Obviously add in more if you plan to get the combined ticket and also do the other sites included in the ticket.
Logistics: You can buy your tickets at the building right across the street from the belltower entrance. Double check the hours and make a plan – what they had posted on the door were different than what I could find online. So I’d suggest stopping by the office (which you’ll walk past multiple times if you’re in old town anyway) and just verifying when they’re open if you want to do this.

Day Trip to Krka National Park

If you’re a fan of waterfalls and lush, green scenery, Krka should be added to your itinerary! If you have a car rental or would be okay renting one for a day or two, I would recommend going that route so you have complete control over your itinerary there and you can really make the most of your time in Krka! However, if you aren’t renting a car or simply want to be able to sit back and leave all the logistics to the pros, you can always take a guided bus tour like we did! There are multiple to choose from, but we opted for this one, which gave us an hour in the small town of Trogir on the way, about 1.5 hours in Krka (which is enough time to slowly walk the main paths) and about 1.5 hours in Skala after the park for food and wine tasting.

But enough about the logistics of our tour and more about Krka itself: the park boasts seven main waterfalls overflowing one over the other as they cascade into a vibrant blue lake. Even on a cloudy day, the water was vibrant in this brilliant bold blue, with water so clear you could see straight through to the bottom in most parts. The platforms guide you through the park, over the water and through the growth, making you feel like you’re a part of the forest rather than just inside of it. Frogs croak so loud, almost as if to drown out the rushing of the nearby falls. And as you wander along the bright blue, crystal clear waters, every fiber in your being wants to jump right in, especially on a hot day (but that is now banned, except for in very specific areas). Whether you do this as a guided tour or on your own, Krka will be a highlight of your trip, and a welcome reprieve from city life.

Cost: Our bus tour cost $55 per person with the wine tasting, but that did not include tickets to the park. We had to pay for that when we checked into the tour, in cash, and it cost an additional 16 euro per person. If you’re looking to go on your own, tickets to the park are 40 euros per person during peak season (June – Sept), 20 euros per person in April, May, October, and 7 euros per person the rest of the year.
Time Allotted: Whether you drive yourself or join a guided tour, plan for at least 6 hours. It takes about an hour to drive there, so if you want to give yourself plenty of time in the park to not feel rushed and see everything, make sure you block off a decent chunk of time.
Logistics: You can book your tour ahead of time. Here is the tour that we booked, and I would recommend it if you go that route. If you would prefer to rent a car and tour yourself, you can buy your park tickets at the park or, if you want guaranteed entry on a busy day, you can buy them ahead of time here. While it wasn’t packed while we were there, I have seen video of the platforms being completely full of people. So I’d recommend booking ahead of time if you’re worried about entry, and also getting there early to try to beat the crowds.

Froggyland

Ul. kralja Tomislava 5, 21000, Split, Croatia

I’m going to be completely honest with you, this one may not be for everyone. But if you’re into absurd, wildly odd attractions, then this is exactly for you.

We had originally come across Froggyland in the Travel Man episode about Split (a show you should definitely seek out and see if they’ve traveled anywhere you’re planning to go). And while we had laughed it off and thought, “Yeah, maybe we’ll go,” we decided we HAD to go when we just stumbled across it walking around in Split.

And while we couldn’t take photos of the inside, you can tell from our huge smiles that we had a blast! It is, as the sign says, a unique collection of stuffed frogs, put in all sorts of human situations common from when the frogs were taxidermied in the 1910s, such as a classroom, a courtroom, gymnastics, a day at the park, etc. While the situations themselves are absurd enough, the real kicker that sells the hilarity are all of the descriptions and quotes attributed to the frogs in the dioramas.

So if you’re not turned off by taxidermy and surreal comedy is your vibe, then this might be one of those must sees for you!

Cost: It’s a little steep, in my opinion, at 15 euros (cash) or 17 euros (credit card) per person, but how often are you going to get to see taxidermied frogs doing acrobatics in a circus, or doing the hurdle jump, or holding court?!
Time Allotted: It’s not huge by any means, so even reading all of the captions and really absorbing everything, we were in and out in about 30 minutes.
Logistics: No real logistics for this one! Just go and pay! If you want to save 2 euros per person, plan to pay the 15 euros in cash.

While we didn’t do these things, I’ve seen these recommended by others as options of things you could do!

Fortress Klis
For panoramic views in a fortress built over 2000 years ago, take the 20 minute drive outside of Split to Fortress Klis. The fortress itself looks stunning, settled on the top of a ridge to serve as an outlook over the sea, and you can walk the ramparts and the towers of the fortress.

Island Hopping Tour
There are multiple coastal locations you can get to from Split, including Hvar and the famous Blue Lagoon. So if you’re interested in seeing some of the many islands around the area, you can book a water taxi or a full guided tour to get from one to the other! There are half day and full day options available, depending on where you want to go.

Game of Thrones Tour
Similar to Dubrovnik, Split was used as a filming location for Game of Thrones. While you’ll likely walk right through Diocletian’s Cellars multiple times, which they used as the dragon’s den, there are other locations as well, and a tour will be able to give you the full rundown. I’ve heard they can be pretty pricey though, so you could also try to find filming locations online and build your own tour!

FAQs & General Tips for Dubrovnik

How long do I need in Split?
We had two nights in Split, and I think that could be enough to hit the highlights if you don’t do the day trip to Krka like we did. We would have loved an extra day to just explore the city fully, because it offered so much right there in old town. So if you’re planning for a day trip somewhere, whether Krka or an island hopping trip, maybe plan an extra night.

Do I need to make dinner reservations?
We didn’t make reservations in Split and were just fine. However, I could see it getting quite busy during peak season. So if you’re there during summer months, it may be worth making reservations if there’s somewhere you know you want to go. If you’d like to see where we ate and where I recommend, check out my blog about where we ate!

Will I be able to get around easily speaking English?
Like the rest of Croatia, you won’t have any issue communicating in English!

Will I need a lot of cash?
The only place that we went to that was cash only was Leopold’s Craft Beer Bar, but other than that, it was very credit card friendly!

How to get around in Split?
We just walked everywhere in old town as everything is quite close. The one time we needed to get to a different part of town, we opted for an Uber as it was roughly the same price as the bus. However, if you wanted to use the public transit system, they do have a bus system. You can pay at ticket booths near the gates, but the easiest option is to download the Promet Split app, buy a ticket, and then scan the QR code with the app when boarding to validate your ticket. We did this in Zagreb and it was very easy and convenient!

Final Thoughts on Split

Split honestly surprised me. I came in thinking it might feel like Dubrovnik, a little over touristy, lacking a true sense of unique character. But I couldn’t have been more wrong! Split quickly made it to my shortlist of favorite cities and one that I can’t wait to visit again.

For an ancient city, literally built into a 1700 year old structure, Split buzzes with energy. It feels like the kind of city people truly live in, not just travel to. While it certainly is a tourist hotspot, it doesn’t feel as though it’s catering to tourists alone, neglecting locals for the one-time visitors. While full of shops and restaurants, they weren’t overly kitschy or commercial. Most seemed local, individual, and unique to Split, preserving a sense of self that other hotspots can quickly lose with heavy tourism. There was a true sense of pride, especially as they geared up for their annual Split Day celebration, and the city seemed eager to highlight what makes it stand out from other cities, not just in Croatia, but in Europe. Not a sleepy old town, stuck in time and leaning solely on its architecture as the draw, it blends the best parts of a vibrant city with the allure of a picturesque European city, with its ancient stones, curved buttresses, and imposing towers flooded with the dancing lights of a nearby club, or resonating with the sounds of an open-air movie night. All around you is like a time warp, where stepping down one street can throw you back to the Roman Empire, and then the next one has you dancing at an EDM concert. Split, with its split personality, gives you the best kind of whiplash that will keep you coming back for more.

Check out my other posts to see where else we went in Croatia, what we did, and where we ate!

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