Dinkwads Abroad

I’ve been a strange combination of excited and apprehensive about starting my posts about Ljubljana. Excited because it quickly became one of my favorite cities, not just on our Croatia and Slovenia trip, but in the world. Apprehensive because I fear I won’t be able to do it justice.

John Denver has a line in a song “coming home to a place he’d never been before.” To me, this line has two meanings: You travel somewhere new and it immediately feels as though it’s home. Like you belong. Like it’s where a part of your heart has secretly been tucked away all these years without even knowing it. Or it’s that you’ve returned to your actual, physical home after traveling, with such a changed perspective, where you are such a changed person, your home doesn’t even feel the same as it had before you left.

Ljubljana is one of those places that fits both of those for me. I’ve had this feeling in a handful of other places: Galway Ireland, Annecy France, Edinburgh Scotland, Tokyo Japan, Astoria Oregon. You step foot into a city for the first time and immediately feel like you’ve reconnected with a piece of yourself you didn’t know was missing. It’s beyond the sights or the food or even the people, all of which were standout in Ljubljana. But it’s more than that. It’s a sense of belonging that can’t be manufactured. It’s reconnecting with that part of your heart that had unknowingly been hidden in this foreign land all these years, slowly piecing yourself together to make you whole again. It’s coming home for the first time.

To see my perfect itinerary for a trip to Croatia and Slovenia, including Ljubljana, along with all the details on how to do it so you can book it yourself, check out my detailed post here!

Where We Stayed

We had three nights in Ljubljana in total on this trip. On the one hand, it was the perfect amount of time for this trip. On the other, it was not nearly enough time for such an incredible city!

Hotel Emonec

Wolfova ulica 12, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Check Availability Here

Almost everything about this place was exactly what I look for in a hotel room: affordable, great location, clean, comfortable bed. Bonus points in that it also was incredibly spacious with room to spread! It’s nothing fancy by any means, but a hotel is just a place to sleep for me.

Where Hotel Emonec loses a point for me is the noise. While this might not be the case in every room, we were located on the first floor just down a short hall from the entrance to the building. And that front door is LOUD! Even when you try to close it softly, it sounds as if a tempestuous teenager has just slammed their bedroom door in all their hormonal fury. And being right down the hall, that’s exactly what we heard as people started leaving early in the morning.

I don’t want that to deter anyone from staying here though. I think if we had been further away from the front door, it would have been a perfect stay. So if you decide to stay, maybe just request a room a little more removed.

Cost: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: I’d 100% stay here again, but just request a room that’s not near the front door of the building!

Where We Ate

Ljubljana feels like a young person’s town in what it has to offer. With restaurants lining the river and Friday night food festivals and international options (including a ton of Korean places we found!), you’ll have plenty to choose from. This is probably one of the main things that really drew me into Ljubljana from the get go!

Odprta Kuhna (Open Kitchen)

Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 6, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

Located in Central Market Square, this is a popular option open Fridays from mid-March to October. Local restaurants set up tents and take over the square for the evening, serving items from their menus every Friday. This is an excellent way to try dishes from multiple local restaurants, and even get some local beers and wines! We had Korean fried chicken, a lobster roll, roasted pork, and beer from a local brewery all in one place!

💡Pro tip: Take your food and eat in Pub Loo-Blah-Nah right there with a good local craft beer!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: If you’re in Ljubljana on a Friday from March to October, this is a MUST do! Everyone can find something they like, and you’ll get to try multiple restaurants.

Logistics: All four places we got food from took credit card, though there may be some that are cash only. It also gets VERY busy, so plan to wait in line for really popular restaurants, and also plan to work your way through a crowd to get there.

Stow 2 Go

Prešernov trg 2, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

While this place seems to take their coffee very seriously (more about that in my coffee section), they also don’t disappoint in the pastry category. While they had a fairly small selection, the ones we had were absolutely amazing. The pastry was flaky and light, and the fruit filling was perfectly sweet. They don’t have seating, so this is very much a grab and go place. We just sat and ate ours in the main square right there!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: These pastries were so good, I wish we had gone back a second time before we left Ljubljana!

Logistics: They took credit card, but I’m not sure if they take cash. They just operate out of a window storefront, so there’s no “inside” to it, and you just order there.

Puffy Lil Pancakes

Čopova ulica 14, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Restaurant Website

Sometimes you just need a little sweet treat to end the night, but you don’t want to go for a full dessert at a sit down restaurant. That’s exactly what Puffy Lil Pancakes is for! It’s exactly as the name says, puffy lil pancakes, that you can dress up with different toppings to satisfy whatever craving you’re having in the moment! We went with a white chocolate sauce and some sort of fruit crumble. As you can see from the picture, they didn’t skimp on the toppings either! This place will definitely satisfy your sweet tooth for cheap!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: The perfect stop for a little sweet treat when you need a break from gelato!

Logistics: They took credit card, but I’m not sure about cash. They don’t have anywhere to sit as you just order from a window, but we found somewhere nearby to sit.

Burek Olimpija

Slovenska cesta 58, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Restaurant Website

This will show up in almost any video or post about where to eat in Ljubljana, and their posters showing their TripAdvisor accolades as best restaurant multiple years in a row show that others agree.

And as far as burek went, this was probably my favorite on the trip. The pastry was flaky, and it was just the kind of greasy you want in a fast food. But what really made it my favorite was the different flavors. While most burek we had was a simple meat or cheese, this one had a pizza flavor and an apple flavor, which really stood out! The pizza flavor combined all the best things about pizza in a flaky crust, and the apple one was sweet, but not too sweet.

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: These are pretty heavy and HUGE for the price, so we weren’t able to finish both between the two of us. I don’t know that I’d be able to eat here frequently with how heavy they were, but I’d still get them both on my next visit to Ljubljana for sure!

Logistics: They took credit card and probably take cash. Another spot that is just ordering at a window with nowhere to sit. But they do have a stall where you can stand and set your burek while you eat.

Restaurant Most

Petkovškovo nabrežje 21, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Restaurant Website

Most is the Slovenian word for bridge, so you can probably assess that this is nearby one of the famous bridges in old town! This one is right by the Butcher’s Bridge with all the love padlocks.

Restaurant Most showed up on a lot of lists for me as I researched the best place for dinner in Ljubljana. While pricey, it was absolutely delicious! I highly recommend trying their sea bass ceviche and truffle pasta with prawns. The ceviche was bursting with flavor and incredibly light, perfect for an appetizer! We also had the lamb confit, which was fine, but not worth it for the price in my opinion. But the lemon tart for dessert was absolute perfection!

Price: $$

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: A bit pricey, but 3/4 items were worth it for me! I’d skip the lamb confit though.

Logistics: They accept card or cash and are right along the river, so you get a good view and great people watching. While we were able to get in without a reservation, you may need one during peak season.

Norma 23

Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 1, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Restaurant Website

This place wasn’t originally on our list of places to eat, but when lunchtime rolled around and Beau was craving the regional carniola sausage, we had limited options. And while I originally thought, based on the menu, that we’d be disappointed in where we ended up, I was pleasantly surprised! The sausage had the juicy pop you want in a good link, and it paired perfectly with the crusty roll, spicy mustard, and horseradish. And the piquante galette with apples, prosciutto, burrata, and a chili oil was a nice blend of salty and sweet.

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: It was a pretty affordable spot for a sit down lunch, with both entrees being just over 10 euros a piece. I don’t know that I’d necessarily go out of my way to eat there, but if you’re looking for a nice, but affordable lunch and want to sit outside, this is a solid option!

Logistics: They accept card or cash and are right down by the Central Market Square. While we were able to get seated without a reservation, if you want to guarantee you go here, you may want to call ahead during peak season.

Fetiche Patisserie

Mestni trg 10, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Restaurant Website

I’m a sucker for beautiful pastries, and Fetiche Patisserie knows how to deliver on that front. Just look at that first picture! The blueberries, the oranges, the peanuts?! They’re so adorable!

And while I only have so much room in my stomach and only got to enjoy those with my eyes, we did get what I would describe as a flattened croissant and a pistachio dragon roll. The flattened croissant was a little disappointing, honestly. It was dry and kind of flavorless. We’ve had similar things in Paris that were amazing, so we were hoping for better.

However, the pistachio dragon roll was great! It was filled a pistachio cream and made up for the disappointment of the other pastry!

Price: $$

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: These were pricier than we would normally spend for pastries, but they were good, so it’s worth a visit for one morning! Just don’t get the flattened croissant.

Logistics: They accept card or cash and have limited spaces to sit down.

Other Places To Eat

While we didn’t get to eat at these restaurants and therefore can’t vouch for them ourselves, they were on our list of options based on other peoples’ suggestions!

Restavracija Breg – Breg 20, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
I saw this place recommended online multiple times as a place for quality, local dishes. I wish we had gotten the chance to try it, but it’s on my list for next time!

Slovenska Hiša – Figovec – Gosposvetska cesta 1, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Hearty, traditional dishes with a modern twist at a decent price!

Where We Drank

Coffee

Stow 2 Go

Prešernov trg 2, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

I covered their pastries already above, but if you’re not a sweets person or just want to grab a good cup of coffee, then this is still worth going to. This is the kind of place that takes its roasts seriously, highlighting where they come from and the notes of flavor in the different coffee beans. You can tell there’s pride in what they’ve curated, and you can taste it in the well-balanced cup of coffee, whether you’re taking it black, iced with milk, or any other way!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: A great spot to grab a quality cup of coffee!

Logistics: You can pay card, but I’m not sure if they take cash. It’s just one small window with nowhere to sit, so plan to take your coffee to go, though there are many places you can sit in the square nearby if you want to take your time sipping it.

Libations

Pub Loo-Blah-Nah

Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 1, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Website

Situated right in the middle of downtown, this is an easy spot to get to after a day of exploring the city. And while they have a small beer list, what they do have is quality. We particularly liked their APA and their Spruce IPA!

💡Pro tip: Keep an eye out for the emu who frequents there! Also, go on a Friday so you can grab some food from the Open Kitchen vendors to soak up the beer!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: The beer was nothing super unique, but it was quality and worth a visit. It’s always great finding an actual craft brewery in the middle of an old town!

Logistics: You can pay card or cash. No reservations needed, and you could sit inside or outside. I think they served snacks, but no full meals, so make sure you plan a meal around it.

Projekt Craft Beer Shop

Trubarjeva cesta 45, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

Just down the street from Pub Loo-Blah-Nah is Projekt Craft Beer Shop. I failed to get any pictures, because this place was PACKED when we were there! They were celebrating their one year anniversary and all the craft beer lovers seemed to have turned out for their incredible selection of craft drafts and cans! Seriously, with a huge selection of local and regional craft beers, you’ll find something new and delicious to try for sure. You can also take the cans and bottles to go, so you don’t have to drink them right then if you don’t want to.

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: This is a great spot to go to get a can to go or to try something you may not be able to get elsewhere! And the staff and regulars were so incredibly friendly, so it’s definitely worth a stop!

Logistics: They took credit card, and may take cash. While seating inside is limited, almost everyone was drinking out on the street when we were there, so no big deal if there aren’t any seats as long as you’re okay with standing! They don’t serve food, so make sure you plan a meal around it!

Sir William’s Pub

Tavčarjeva ulica 8a, 1101 Ljubljana, Slovenia

When I hear a name like Sir William’s Pub, my first thought is that it’s going to be a basic English pub abroad, with your standard Newcastle or Guinness or Strongbow on tap. But after I saw this pub’s tap list, I saw I had assumed wrong! This place had anything but your basic beers, and had so many craft cans and drafts worth trying, we ended up going back a second time!

As with most of Ljubljana, the staff was exceptionally kind and welcoming, even remembering us when we came back the second time.

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: This will always be a place I return to when coming back to Ljubljana! It was warm and inviting, the staff was great, and the beer options were exceptional!

Logistics: They took credit card, and may take cash. There was plenty of seating inside and some outside. They don’t serve any kind of food except maybe some chips or light snacks, so make sure you get some food before drinking all the amazing beers they have!

Tektonik Kraft Pivovarna

Likozarjeva ulica 1, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia

Another gem of a craft brewery, Tektonik is a little further out from old town, but worth the walk. Reminiscent of a typical hip craft brewery, it’s a large space with plenty of room to spread out, and a large selection of their own draft beers to try. We did a flight, focusing mostly on IPAs, and had 6 to try without even touching stouts, sours, pilsners, or anything else.

And if the beers weren’t amazing enough, the service was even better. It was a quiet afternoon as all the craft beer lovers were over celebrating at Projekt, so we chatted with the bartender, learning all about their beer, Ljubljana, Slovenia, and him. He was an absolute pleasure to chat with, and this place will hold a special place in our hearts for the memories made there!

Price: $

My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Verdict: Worth the 15 minute walk away from old town!

Logistics: They took credit card, and may take cash. They sometimes have food, but it’s not always guaranteed.

💡Pro tip: It’s near Burek Olympija, so maybe stop by there and grab a burek before or after!

Other Places To Drink

These are other places we had saved to try, but didn’t make it to!

Voyager Craft Bar – Trg Osvobodilne fronte 13a, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
They seem to have a great beer list, as well as small food options that look delicious! I wish we had gotten the chance to go here, but we just ran out of time!

Conclusion

Looking back through this post, I’m starting to realize part of the reason I may have loved Ljubljana was all the great food and drink we had there! And this was just barely scratching the surface of all the places we found while just wandering around. There are a plethora of places to try, from fast casual to upscale, and I know I can’t wait to go back and try them all.

Walking along the river, with the clinking of utensils on plates and the low murmur of diners, overhanging trees for shade and the picturesque old town as the backdrop, the city pulls you in and makes you feel like one of its own the second you set foot on its streets. Ljubljana is the place that makes you feel not like a tourist, just a temporary local.