One of my favorite parts of planning our trips is looking at all of the options for hotels – even the ones I know we won’t be able to afford. A girl can dream, right?! I just love seeing what’s available and the unique options out there! While we often end up at just a regular, nothing special hotel (hey, we’re working on a budget), sometimes we get some truly special stays, and Japan and South Korea certainly was one of those trips with some standout accommodations! Read below to see where we stayed!
And if you want to check out our full itinerary and tips and tricks for traveling these two countries, check out this blog post!
Tokyo
When I say that we went back and forth at least 100 on what area of Tokyo to stay in, I’m not exaggerating (well, maybe a little bit). Just when I decided, “Yeah, we want to stay right in the middle of everything in Shinjuku,” I’d look at another blog post or watch another video that would convince me that Ueno was the right route. And honestly? I don’t think you could go wrong either way.
But ultimately, we chose Ueno because 1) it was located near the station we’d be departing from when we left Tokyo and 2) we figured it’d be a little quieter than Shinjuku. And in the end, we loved that area! The famous Ameyoko Street was right there with all the different food tempting your taste buds, Ueno Park was just down the street for a quick break from the bustle of Tokyo, and there was a local train station and a Shinkansen (bullet train) all right there together! And let me tell you, Ueno Station is 1000x easier to navigate than Shinjuku Station!
So after all that back and forth debate, we finally decided to stay at Hotel Sardonyx Ueno. We decided on them because they provided more space for the money, and space is definitely a hot commodity in Tokyo! It comes with free breakfast, which when we were there included pancakes, toast, egg salad, and a hot dog. You could pay for additional things like lattes, juices, or other food. While it wasn’t anything special, it was nice to get something in our stomachs before the day began!
Cost: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: For the price in Tokyo (around $140/night), I can’t complain. Was it huge? No. Was it bigger than other options in Tokyo in that price range? A little, and every little bit counts. It was also clean and quiet and in a great location. So while it was nothing fancy and the breakfast included left a lot to be desired, it covered the basics of what I need for a comfortable place to stay!
Hotel Sardonyx Ueno
6 Chome-6-7 Ueno, Taito City, Tokyo 110-0005, Japan
Check Availability Here
Shibu Onsen
Shibu Onsen is a small onsen town in Nagano prefecture, and if you go there, you’ll have your pick of traditional Japanese ryokans and public onsens to soak away the pain of 20,000 steps a day in Tokyo. However, we went there for a very specific purpose: to stay at one of the ryokans rumored to have inspired the bathhouse in Miyazaki’s Spirited Away! So if you’re a Ghibli fan, this may be worth the trek to go stay a night at Kanaguya, because look at it! Doesn’t it just feel like you’re about to be swept away to a mystical world when you step inside?!
When we went, we had to email a travel agent who connected with the ryokan directly to book on our behalf, but it appears they’ve since updated their website, and you can now book directly through them here or on Rakuten. I prefer booking directly with the accommodation when possible, especially for something like this as you get to choose your specific room type as well as meal plans. It seems they book up pretty early, so don’t wait too long!
Speaking of meals, there aren’t a ton of restaurants in Shibu, but you won’t need them, because Kanaguya will keep you full! We had more food than I, a voracious eater, could manage at both dinner and breakfast, both of which were included with our stay. This is a traditional kaiseki style meal served at ryokans, which is a multi-course cuisine focusing on seasonal and local ingredients. And when they say multi-course, they mean it! Look at all those plates – that’s not even everything we were served!
The room accommodations were traditional Japanese futon style. After we were done eating our massive kaiseki dinner, we rolled ourselves into our room to see they had set up the futons. So if you require or prefer a Western bed, this may not be the stay for you. However, if you’re looking for a really traditional feel, then this is it! Also, this may not be the place to stay for those with sensitive noses – between the earthy, grassy smell of the tatami mats in the room and the strong sulfur scent from the hot springs, it may be a little overwhelming to some!
We also didn’t have a shower in our room – we had to rely on the private baths onsite to shower after we soaked in the hot springs. Read more about hot spring etiquette in my post here, but just a note, we had to keep our tattoos completely covered the whole time we were at Kanaguya, even if not using the baths. That meant not using the public baths and only sticking to private ones they had onsite at the property. So if you have tattoos, either plan to only use private baths or get waterproof tattoo covers.
Cost: $$$
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: This one was a splurge for us. When I tell you we NEVER spend this much on accommodations, I mean it. It helped that I could offset it by free lodging with my family for 4 nights. But if this is in your budget, I’d recommend it. The area is beautiful, so many hot springs to soak your weary body in, and for $165 per person, we got a unique stay with SO MUCH DELICIOUS FOOD!
Kanaguya
2202 Hirao, Yamanouchi, Shimotakai District, Nagano 381-0401
Check Availability Here
Shima Onsen
Guys, I’m not too hard to impress. I’m pretty happy in most accommodations we stay in. I just need a bedbug-free room, ideally with little street noise, a semi-comfortable bed, and a shower. Boom. That’s it.
But that being said, I think even the pickiest of travelers, the ones who need the most perfect, extravagant rooms, would be blown away by Sekizen-kan. This was our other onsen stay, and where Kanaguya had the charm of a nice, traditional ryokan, Sekizen-kan takes the concept of an old-school ryokan and modernizes it in a stunning way. They have varying types of rooms, but the one we selected had the traditional Japanese designs with contemporary features. And the result is nothing short of spectacular.
This is the other ryokan that is said to have been an inspiration for Miyazaki’s Spirited Away bathhouse. And it looks like it was pulled straight out of the film with that red bridge! Not going to lie, I held my breath when walking across to make sure the spirits didn’t see me.
And if you thought the outside was impressive, the room itself would blow you away! After checking in (and being given a castella cake and green tea as a welcome snack), we were guided to our incredible room for the night. Not only were these by far the most comfortable beds I had slept in, not just this trip, but maybe any trip we’ve ever taken, but the room was just absolutely breathtaking! But the highlight, and the reason we booked the room, was the in room hot spring. It overlooked a treed area, so you had plenty of privacy (which is important, since hot spring etiquette is to be in the nude), but still got to enjoy having the windows opened to feel the fresh air and the sounds of the remote area.
And when I say remote, I do mean remote. There’s not a ton else to do in this town, so this is one of those destination accommodations: the stay is the activity. And with all the different hot springs they offer and surrounding area to hike in, it’s definitely worth the journey!
Similar to our stay at Kanaguya, Sekizen-kan blessed us with a multi-course kaiseki meal for both dinner and breakfast. In the same way the rooms were a more modern twist on a ryokoan, so were the meals. Where the Kanaguya meal felt like something your mom might make (if your mom cooked very traditional, multi-course Japanese meals), this felt like what you’d get at a Michelin Star restaurant. Not better, just elevated. And still just as much food.
We booked directly through their website, which can be slightly confusing due to all the different packages offered as far as food add-ons, but it’s the best way to do it to get to select your specific room. They also seem to book up pretty far in advance, so make sure you plan ahead of time to get the room you want!
Cost: $$$
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: At $500 for the night for two people, this was more than we’ve ever spent on a place to stay. Again, we had the luxury of saving money by staying with family other days, so that helped justify the cost. They also do have cheaper rooms available, but they may not have a hot spring in room or be as spacious or modern. So there are other options if you’re not wanting to spend that much, and you can still enjoy their public baths (so long as you cover any tattoos). But this was also an experience, not just a bed and shower. The way the building lit up at night was nothing short of magical, and enjoying the hot spring in the comfort of my own room at the end of the night was perfect. Absolutely would recommend if you can make it work.
Sekizen-kan
377-0601 Gunma, Agatsuma District, Nakanojo, Shima
Check Availability Here
Okazaki
Okazaki is where my brother lives. And while my accommodations there were outstanding and the hospitality was absolutely incredible, I don’t think my brother and his family will be opening their house up to strangers anytime soon.
And would I recommend staying in Okazaki if you don’t have a reason to go there? Unless you’re a huge fan of Toyota and want to see the nearby Toyota HQ, probably not. You can use it as a jumping off point for other places like we did, but honestly, Nagoya is only about 40 minutes away by train and has a ton more interesting things to see and do while still acting as a home base.
If you’re following my itinerary, I suggest taking the nights in Okazaki and spreading them out amongst Nagoya, Kyoto and/or Osaka, depending on what you have interest in doing.
Kyoto
We knew when going to Kyoto, we wanted to try to stay in a traditional style Japanese room, with the tatami mats and futons. You could spend A LOT to stay somewhere in Kyoto, or you could get a deal and stay at the same B&B we did!
I wish I had gotten pictures, but we came in sweaty after a full day of hiking, and my main focus was to get changed into some fresh clothes! So I had my things strewn all over the room before I had a chance to take a nice clean picture. But you can see pictures here!
And this place had it all! Charm? Check. Delicious breakfast? Check. Location? Check. Personable host who made the whole stay extra memorable? Triple check! He did everything to make sure our stay was fantastic, and seemed genuinely excited to have us there as guests. Truly, I’ve never had a host make us feel so special! He served us a hearty, home-cooked breakfast both mornings, and enjoyed the opportunity to ask us questions about where we’re from, what we were doing in Japan, and more. We also learned that he and I share a favorite music artist – Bryan Adams! So obviously we bonded over our love of 80s ballads.
And as far as location, it was a 10 minute walk or less to any of the main tourist areas in Kyoto, so it made for a great jumping off point to explore all the rich history in the city! For the price and the hospitality, this place can’t be beat!
Cost: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: This was only $120 per night. To me, that’s incredibly cheap to be in the heart of Kyoto, with an amazing breakfast each morning! The building and rooms are maybe a little dated, but they’re clean and comfortable. And also, you’re staying in a town rich with history – it’s understandable that your room may be somewhat dated if your trying to steep yourself in that history! And the hospitality more than made up for anything the physical space itself may have been lacking.
Room in Higashiyama-ku
Check Availability Here
Osaka
Osaka was really just a quick stop for us as we flew out the next morning to Seoul. So we were looking for three things: a comfy bed (look, as much as I love engrossing myself in a local culture, I needed a full mattress instead of futons on tatami mats), easy access to the airport, and proximity to good food since it would be our last dinner in Japan. So that’s ultimately how we ended up at Dormy Inn PREMIUM Nanba.
Again, I failed to take pictures of the room, but picture a standard Western hotel room. It’s unassuming, but clean. It’s a place to lay your head at the end of the night, but nothing you’re going to think, “I can’t wait to go back there!” Unless your thing is basic hotel rooms, then all the power to you.
The standout for this hotel was the free ice cream! After we checked in, we made our way to where reception told us would be free ice cream, and just grabbed whatever tickled our fancy from the cooler and went on our way. Supposedly they also do free ramen, but we had committed ourselves to dinner plans elsewhere, so we didn’t partake in that. But not a bad deal!
In terms of location, it’s right down the street from the famous Dotonbori, so it’s easy to pop on over to see all the famous signs or wander the massive Don Quijote! Or if you’re looking for my favorite part of the area, Namba, you could just walk 15 minutes to get in the heart of it!
Cost: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: I couldn’t find exactly what I paid for Dormy Inn, but I know it wasn’t much. And similar to the hotel in Tokyo, it’s a solid stay, especially for the price. So while it’s nothing stand out that I won’t go out of my way for, its prime location and price means it’s definitely a place I’d consider to stay the next time I’m in Osaka!
Dormy Inn PREMIUM Nanba
2 Chome-14-23 Shimanouchi, Chuo Ward, Osaka
Check Availability Here
Seoul
My first time in South Korea! And if you’ve watched any K-Dramas, you’ve seen the welcoming courtyard areas within the old Korean hanoks, the beautiful stone walls, the rich woodwork. And so as soon as I saw this place, I KNEW I had to stay here! Just look at those pictures! Can you not picture yourself being the star of a K-Drama with that backdrop?! In fact, it turns out that a short film called Awaiting was even filmed there!
And let me give a shoutout to the host of this place. We had to reschedule this entire trip at one point due to personal reasons, from the spring to the fall. I reached out to our host to explain why, and their response was nothing but compassionate, and said that if we tried to rebook our new dates and found they were full to reach out and they’ll figure something out to make it work for us. Thankfully, they had availability when we went to rebook, but it was so great to know they had our back!
Now let me caveat by saying that this place probably isn’t for everyone. While we loved our stay, there are a few things to keep in mind.
- Bukchon Hanok Village is a historical area, with very narrow streets. As such, cars aren’t allowed in certain areas. I believe the closest car drop off we could get was still a 10 minute walk away, and this place is HILLY! So if you’re not prepared for a hike with your bags, it may not be the best option.
- This is a traditional hanok, which means they don’t have beds. And unlike Japan where they sleep on futons on tatami mats, which help cushion a little bit, these are thin mats on essentially a concrete floor. So while the hosts allowed me to go snag a few extra mats to make it more comfortable, it still was not the most comfortable sleep.
- Many places in Korea have very old plumbing that simply can’t handle toilet paper. This place is one of them. So instead of flushing your toilet paper, you have to put it in the garbage bin in the bathroom. This was a first for us, and certainly took some getting used to.
Now that we got that out of the way, one more note about this place! The breakfast! Every morning, we were greeted with a warm squid (or maybe octopus?) rice porridge along with some banchan (side dishes) for a nice, hearty way to start the day. And if those don’t agree with your tastebuds or stomach, the host offered to make other dishes. There was one morning I was so full, I couldn’t finish it, and he kept showing me the other things he could make me instead, thinking I just didn’t like it! So it seems he’s more than willing to cater to your tastes, depending on what he has available!
Cost: $
My Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Verdict: We paid around $150/night, which I feel is a steal for the ambiance and the included breakfast! And even with the caveats mentioned above, I still would recommend this as a place to stay if you truly want to experience a traditional Korean style accommodation! Walking into that absolutely gorgeous courtyard every morning and evening made up for the walks up the hill, and we adjusted to sleeping on the floor well enough. I’m all about trying new experiences when traveling, and this certainly provided me that! I think if you have the means and a body able to handle the walk/sleeping on the floor, it’s worth doing at least once!
Bukchon Hanok Village
Check Availability Here
Conclusion
There you have it, all the places we stayed while we were in Japan and South Korea! All of these places (with the exception of Okazaki) have countless of great options for accommodations.
My advice for deciding where to stay? Figure out where you’ll be doing the bulk of your activities and stay close to that. Sure, the place 20 minutes outside of the city center may be a little cheaper per night, but when you calculate in the time and cost to travel to that main area every day, it very likely is worth just paying a little extra per night to wake up and go to sleep where you spend the rest of your trip (if it’s in budget, of course).
And if you’re interested in seeing what we did in each place and where we ate/drank, or just some general tips and tricks, check out my other blog posts about this incredible Japan and South Korea trip here!
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